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Welcome to Survival Bus, here I am restoring a 1977 Volkswagen Sportsmobile Bus, to be used as a Bug Out Vehicle, daily driver and off grid home if needed. I also will write about different prepping and survival topics my family and I learn and do. The first Survival Bus was a 1979 VW Westfalia, I no longer have it, and am starting over.

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Alternative to Cows, Rabbit Farming

For many years and still today people have relied on rabbits as a source of meat, in a survival situation rabbits can be a never ending source of food. Rabbits are great survival livestock, they need very little space, light and they breed fast, farming rabbits for money is also profitable. Rabbits, cute enough to eat.

I have included a basic How-To I found.

Benefits Of Rabbits

Raising rabbits are much cheaper, more efficient, and more productive than raising chickens.

A doe can produce up to 1000% her body weight in food per year.
Rabbits can be raised in confinement, whereas chickens need much more space.
Chicken reproduction is "light sensitive", whereas rabbit reproduction is opportunity sensitive.
It is much easier to raise food for rabbits than it is food for chickens.
Since rabbits are raised in confinement, it drastically reduces the threat to your herd from predators.
You can skin and butcher 5 rabbits to every chicken given the same amount of time.
Rabbit fur can be a separate barter item.
Rabbit manure is also very good fertalizer.

Rabbit meat tastes good too, some people say that it taste much like poultry. Rabbit meat is mild and savory, never gamy. It is extremely lean, making it perfect for cholesterol-reducing diets. Cooking with liquids keeps rabbit dishes moist and tender. If you're not minding your fat intake, you may want to choose recipes that use oil to maintain juiciness. You can look for rabbit recipes in wild game cookbooks, but most of these just rehash the familiar methods of stewing, frying and baking.

Besides providing you with meat, rabbits produce dung, which makes a good fertilizer. Rabbit skins and fur have many uses. A rabbit can be a source of instant cash in an emergency.

Rabbit Cages

Healthy and productive rabbits need clean, dry homes. You can keep them in cages raised above the ground on posts or on a fence. The bottom of the cage should be three to four feet above the ground--a convenient height for you to work with your rabbits. Some people save space by building shelves on a wall for the cages.

Keep each adult rabbit in its own cage. Each cage should be three feet square, and about two feet high, large enough for a rabbit and its young to move around a little bit. Put the cage in a place that is protected from rain, wind, and hot sun.

Keep the cages clean. Dirt, droppings, and urine from rabbits can contain germs that will make them sick... and a dirty cage will attract flies. You will find it easier to keep a rabbit cage clean if the floor of the cage has holes just large enough for dirt, droppings, and urine to fall through. If the spaces are too large, it is uncomfortable for the rabbit's feet, and baby rabbits' feet may be injured by slipping through the holes.

You can make the floor from wire mesh. Thick wire, with holes that are a 1/2 in. square, is best. Do not use old, rusty, or broken wire mesh. And do not use chicken mesh, because it is too thin and will hurt the rabbit's feet.

The walls should let in plenty of fresh air to keep the rabbits from getting too hot. The walls can have larger spaces in them than the floor.

The door on your cage should be big enough so that you can reach in easily to feed the rabbits and clean every part of the cage. You might want to build a cage with a roof that comes off instead of a regular door.

Note: Never stack cages above one another. I wouldn't want droppings on my head, would you?

Feeding Rabbits

A rabbit's main diet consists of the store bought rabbit food and Timothy Hay. The rabbit pellets come in large bags and look like brown pellets. This is the main source of nutrition for your rabbits. This food has all of the vitamins and minerals that will keep your rabbits healthy. The Timothy Hay will come in a bag that is compressed into a bail. The hay is good for the rabbit's digestive system and will keep them healthy. Another store bought food, alfalfa hay, can be purchased in blocks or as hay. This is good to give to your rabbit as a treat, but not as the main food supply. I prefer to give my rabbits the alfalfa in a block, so as to help wear down their teeth.

Rabbits also eat a number of other foods. My rabbits eats lettuce, carrots, apples and bananas. They also like pears, strawberries, sunflower seeds and a number of other vegetarian food. Fruits and vegetables should be given to yours once a day. Try to vary what you give your rabbits and remember to only let the rabbits eat as much as they want and then take the food out of the cage. If left in the cage it can spoil and the rabbits may get sick. When you give your rabbit forage, like hay, keep the forage off the cage floor by tying it together in a bunch and hanging it from the ceiling or wall of the cage. Just be sure not to put your rabbit feed directly on the floor of the cage where it will be dirtied by urine and droppings. Dirty food can make a rabbit sick. Try to limit the number of fruits your rabbit eats, these are high in calories and make your bunny chubby. Vegetables are better for your rabbit because they do not have as many calories and are a good source of roughage for your rabbit.

Try to keep your rabbit's forage dry, especially in hot weather. If your rabbit eats wet forage it may get sick with diarrhea and even die. If forage is wet when you cut it, let it dry for a few hours before you give it to your rabbit.

Your rabbit needs clean water at least twice a day. You should also clean your rabbit's water container or bowl often.

Note: Rabbits are subject to dehydration, so make sure they always have plenty of water.

You can feed your rabbit forage and scraps from a garden. Then you can use the rabbit droppings you clean out of the cage for fertilizer.

Rabbit Breeding

When it is time to breed the female rabbit, put her into the cage with the male in the early morning or evening. After they have mated, put her back in her own cage. Her litter will be born about a month later.

About a week before your rabbit's babies are born, give her a nest box where she can give birth. The nest is also a warm, dry place for the young rabbits.

There are 6 to 10 babies in a litter. Their eyes will not open until about two weeks after they are born. Do not touch any of the baby rabbits until they are 7 days old. If you do, you will change the way they smell, and the mother will not feed them. If you need to check the baby rabbits, rub your hands over the mother first. Then the babies will smell like their mother instead of smelling like your hands.

When they are two months old, baby rabbits should be weaned from their mothers. You can breed the female again once her litter has been weaned. Feed them for another two months. Then, when they weigh about 4.5 lbs, they are big enough to eat or sell.

Rabbits can give you and your family meat and earn you extra income. And since they are small and easy to feed, they adapt well to city conditions.

Rabbits Are Territorial

Rabbits are extremely territorial. In the wild, rabbits' territorial behavior includes depositing marking pellets at the boundaries of their territory, chinning, urinating, and aggressive behavior such as digging, circling, and fighting. Wild males tend to defend larger territories while females concentrate on their nests. Thus, when introducing new rabbits, territory must be considered. What you are trying to do is eliminate the possibility for there to develop any territorial behavior in the rabbits. Use a water bottle (with the nozzle set on "stream") to break up any fights if they occur. It's best to spray the instigator before a fight actually occurs (watch for aggressive body language) rather than work on breaking up an existing fight.

Interpreting Body Language And Behavior

Rabbits have a language all their own. here are some tips on interpreting your bunnies hops, kicks and grunts.

Sniffing:May be annoyed or just talking to you.

Grunts: Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit!

Shrill Scream: Hurt or dying

Circling Your Feet: Usually indicates sexual behavior.

Spraying: Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray.

Chinning: Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing it's forehead on people and objects.

False Pregnancy: Usually unspayed females may build a nest and pull hair from their chest and stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth.

Bunny Hop Dance: A sign of happiness.

Begging: Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbits treats. Overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits.

Territory Droppings: Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance.

Playing: Rabbits like to push or toss objects around.

Don't Rearrange The Cage: Rabbits are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way. Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their cage as you clean.

Stomping: He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).

Teeth Grinding: Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.

Bug-Out-Bag, just a idea you should run with.....

A bug-out bag is a portable kit popular in the survivalist subculture that contains the items one would require to survive for seventy two hours when evacuating from a disaster. It is also known as a 72-hour kit, and other popular names include BOB bag and GOOD (Get Out Of Dodge) bag. The focus is on evacuation, rather than long-term survival, distinguishing the bug-out bag from a survival kit, a boating or aviation emergency kit, or a fixed-site disaster supplies kit.

The term bug-out bag is related to, and possibly derived from, the "bail-out bag" emergency kit many military aviators carry. The concept passed into wide usage among other military and law enforcement personnel, though the "bail-out bag" is as likely to include emergency gear for going into an emergency situation as for escaping an emergency.


The primary purpose of a bug-out bag is to allow one to evacuate quickly if a disaster should strike. It is therefore prudent to gather all of the materials and supplies that might be required to do this into a single place, such as a bag or a few storage containers. The recommendation that a bug-out bag should contain enough supplies for seventy two hours arises from advice from organizations responsible for disaster relief and management that it may take them up to seventy two hours to reach people affected by a disaster and offer help.

In addition to allowing one to survive a disaster evacuation, a bug-out bag may also be utilized when sheltering in place as a response to emergencies such as house fires, blackouts, tornadoes, and other severe natural disasters.

Typical contents

The suggested contents of a bug-out bag vary, but most of the following are usually included:

  • Enough food and water to last for seventy two hours. This includes:
    • 4 litres (1 gallon) of water per person per day, for washing, drinking and cooking.
    • Non-perishable food.
    • water purification supplies.
    • Cooking supplies.
    • Cutlery and cups/dishes.
  • A first aid kit.
  • Fire starting tool (i.e. matches, ferrocerium rod, lighter, etc.) I keep one of each
  • A disaster plan including location of emergency centers, rallying points, possible evacuation routes etc.
  • Professional emergency literature explaining what to do in various types of disaster, studied and understood before the actual disaster but kept for reference.
  • Maps and travel information.
  • Standard camping equipment, including sanitation supplies.
  • Weather appropriate clothing (poncho, headwear, gloves, etc.)
  • Bedding items such as sleeping bags & blankets.
  • Enough medicine to last an extended evacuation period.
  • Pet, child and elderly care needs.
  • Battery or crank operated Radio. Shortwave should always be included with the radio , but there getting harder to find in the states, wonder why?
  • Lighting (battery or crank operated flashlight, glow sticks). solar charger is also a good idea
  • Firearms and appropriate ammunition.
  • Crowbar (weapon, building and vehicle entry, etc.)
  • Cash and change, as electronic banking transactions may not be available during the initial period following an emergency or evacuation.
  • Barter Items like precious metals and reusable items that you have extra of and are light
  • Fixed-blade or folding knife.

Most of the above is from Wikipedia

I have also included a list I found here

Personal Evacuation Kit

1 CFP-90 Rucksack
3 Liners, Waterproof
2* Canteens, plastic, 1 qt
2* Covers, Canteen, OD
1* Cup, Canteen, Stainless steel
1* Canteen, 2qt w/ covers
1* Compass, Lensatic, Tritium-illuminated w/ pouch
1* Waterproof Map Case with necessary Maps waterproofed with Map Seal
1* Set of Alcohol Markers (in map case)
1* Waterfilter (PUR Scout)
1* set Waterproof Mini-Binoculars
1* Flashlight, Mini-Maglite-type
16* Batteries, Alkaline
100'* 550 Cord
1* Leatherman Supertool
1* Knife, Lockblade, Pocket, Benchmade AFO
1* Knife, Fixed Blade, Busse Steelheart II w/ Eagle sheath
1* Sharpening stone (in pocket on sheath)
1* Watch, windup, w/tritium markings
1* Shovel, Cold Steel Spetsnaz
1* Shelter (doubles as Poncho), IMPS
1* Groundpad, self-inflating, Therm-A-Rest
1* Poncho Liner
1 Sleeping Bag, Modular (for use in -20 degrees Fahrenheit to +40 degrees) w/ stuff sack
1* Space Blanket, Heavy Duty
2 Pants, BDU-type
2 Shirts, long-sleeve, Tuck-in
4 T-shirts, various colors, (Hanes Beefy-T's or similar type)
4 Underwear
6pr Socks, (Over the calf)
2pr Boots, GI, Black.
1 Hat, Boonie type
1 Hat, Baseball type
1pr* Gloves, Leather, BlackA-type
1pr* Liners, Gloves, Wool or Polypropylene
1pr* Pants, wet weather
1* Jacket, Wet Weather
6* MRE's
1* Utensil set (fork, spoon)
1 Cookware Set
2 Candles, 8-hour
100* Matches, waterproof
1* Hammock
1* Wallet, with extra identification and $100 in small bills (minimum)
1* $10 roll silver quarters
1* Pad of Paper (waterproof NoteSafe)
1* Fisher Space Pen (clicker type with rubber coating)
1* Mechanical Pencil 0.9mm
5 Trashbags, Large, Heavy-Duty *(3 in warm weather)

1 Personal Hygeine Kit w/ :

1 Box Baby Wipes
1 Soap Bar (anti-bacterial)
1 Deodorant (Pit-stop, preferable)
1 Toothbrush
1 Toothpaste
1 Mirror, Stainless Steel
1 Roll Toilet Paper
1 Collapsible basin
1 Towel, Cotton
1 Razor, Disposable
5 Blades, Razor
1 Shaving cream
1 Sunblock
1 Foot Powder
1 Plastic Comb
1 Mouthwash

1* First Aid Kit w/ following:

2 Triangular Bandage
1 Box assorted Bandaids
8 Gauze Pads
1 Tweezers
1 Magnifying glass
10 Safety pins
1 Moleskin Roll
1 Bottle 50 Tylenol
1 Bottle One-A-Day Vitamins
1 Thermometer
2 Ace Bandages
2 Rolls Surgical Tape
4 Sutures, General Purpose
1 Tube, Antibiotic cream
1 Box, Pepto-bismol Tablets
1 SAM Splint
1 Lip Balm
3pr Latex Gloves
1 EMT Shears
1 Fingersplint
10 Butterfly closures
5 Ammonia Inhalants
10 Sudafed (or equivalent)
10 Cough Suppressant
10 Maalox (or equivalent)
10 Ex-Lax (or equivalent)

1* Repair Kit:

4 Bulbs, Mini-Maglite type
1 Package, Assorted Needles
1 Package, Threads
10 Buttons
1 Awl
1 Roll, Nylon thread
1 Roll, Waxed Cotton Thread
1 Tube, GOOP
1 Tin, Boot Polish, Black (Kiwi)
1 Tin, Mink Oil
1 Applicator
1 Brush, polish
1 Roll, Duct-tape


2pr Polypropylene Thermal underwear
3pr Wool Socks
1 Sweater, Wool
2pr Gloves, Insulated
1 Jacket, Gore-tex ECWCS
1 Pants, Gore-tex ECWCS
1 Overalls, Fleece (Teddy Bear Suit)
1 Top, Fleece, (Teddy Bear Suit)
1 Cap, Wool, Watchcap type
1 Scarf, Polypropylene
1 Stove, Multi-fuel (Coleman Dual Fuel)
1 Container, Sigg, fuel

Items for Defense (also voted most likely to draw flames)

***Please don't flame me on either weapon choice or how much ammo. Most of the stuff in this section is considered group standard and not open to change***

1 Rifle, Colt AR-15A2, Lightweight Sporter w/ collapsible stock.
7 Magazines, 30 round, (minimum, 14 preferred)
1 Assault Harness (capable of carrying a minimum 6-30 rd magazines)
2 Ammo Pouches (Optional, to hold 3-30 round magazines each)
3 Bandoliers, with 140 rds 5.56x45mm (62 grain Mil Spec. preferred, 55 grain acceptable)
1 Pistol, H&K USP45
3 Magazines, Pistol, 10-rd
50rds Ammunition, .45 ACP 230 grain Ball
16rds Ammunition, .45 ACP Shotshell
1 Web Belt
1 Holster, Pistol, Nylon
1 Pouch, Ammo (capable of holding a minimum of 2 magazines)

1 Weapons Cleaning Kit

1 Rod, Cleaning, 5-piece
2 Patch Holders
2 Bore Brushes for AR-15
2 Bore Brushes for .45
1 Swab for .45
1 Chamber Brush for AR-15
1 Roll Cotton Patches
1 Bottle, Break-Free CLP (4 oz)
1 Bottle, Break-Free CLP (.25 oz)
1 Bottle, Hoppe's #9 (.25 oz)
1 Toothbrush, Nylon
1 Toothbrush, Brass
3 Dental Cleaning picks
2 Rags, cleaning, cotton (shoprags)
25 Qtips
25 Pipe Cleaners

I also found a list of (Alleged) Top 100 Items to Disappear First During a National Emergency

1. Generators
2. Water Filters/Purifiers
3. Portable Toilets
4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to become dried, for home uses.
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots.
8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar
10. Rice - Beans - Wheat
11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,)
12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)
13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking.
16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.)
17. Survival Guide Book.
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc.
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene)
22. Vitamins
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Urgent: Small canister use is dangerous without this item)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products.
25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)
28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)
29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels
31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)
32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches. {"Strike Anywhere" preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels)
49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams
53. Duct Tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry Detergent (liquid)
57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc
65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games, Cards, Dice
68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)
71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soysauce, vinegar, bullions/gravy/soupbase
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. "Survival-in-a-Can"
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattress's
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Livestock (from store shelves? Maybe not.)


The most important thing in my mind is only carry what you can carry, if you find your bag heavy, lighten it. Think of it like this if you have to carry a pack 20+ Miles in unknown terrain, would it be your BOB, my BOB currently weights 35lbs, I do monthly "road march's" with it, so my body is ready if I need to go fast and its a great way to stay in shape. The road march was the best thing I took from my time in the Army. Also consider if you have a family to move everyone gets a bag, the littlest may just have a can of beans & a comfort toy, but every little bit helps, check to see what the limit of every member of the family is, Dad=40lbs, Mom=20lbs+baby, Child age 14=20lbs, Child age 5= 3lbs. Every family is different and mom and dad should both help with packing and preparing, dad my not think of packing mom and daughters, pad and tampons, or babies butt cream. The Bug Out Bag is a never finished item, you should always rotate the contents, whether perishable or not. Keep you bags at the ready whether in the car or at the front door of the house. Think what if? There was a fire, earthquake, flood, tornado, zombie invasion, all at once what would be the BEST place to store them to get them fast, only you can find that spot. and if you have the old rotated or extra items from the BOB, make a new one and place it at a rally point or friend or families home. These are just ideas you can think of to better prepare for disaster.

I would rather be called paranoid before and alive after.


If you would like to add anything to this please email us......


The Condiment Packet and YOU!


So I wanted to talk about something that you don,t hear to often in peoples B.O.B's (Bug Out Bags). When people discuss B.O.B's, it's about having supplies for 72 hours or a full line survival bag, as mine is I could live comfortable, if dropped in most area of the world, for a very long time, but thats not what I am talking about today.

I am wanting to talk about the little thing that everyone should have in there survival bag, the sauce packets,like Ketchup, Horseradish, Honey, Taco Bell Sauces (all), Mustard, Relish, & Cheese Spread, to name a few. When you are in a survival situation that one packet of random sauce, in what ever concoction of food you have scrounged up, could raise the depressed of spirits. You may frown on such a thing now, but when all you have is half a bag of white rice, that you have been living of of for 2 weeks in the middle of now where, ketchup and relish one night and hot sauce the next, is a god send. I always carry a large supply of packets, and rotate when I got out to eat. Grade a hand full next time and put them in a zip log bag and shove them in your bag, I like to keep 2-3 bags placed around my bag.

When I was hitch hiking years ago (2001) I was traveling to California from Missouri and spent many days in the desert, between Flag Staff, Az and Needles, Ca. There was a few times that sauce packet made me feel human again in those lonely nights in the desert. This is a good simple item that could help you stay sane in very stressful survival SHTF moment.

Always Remember if it needs to be refrigerated, DON'T USE IT

The list of my known Condiment Packets:

  1. Barbecue

  2. Brown Sauce

  3. Cheese Spread

  4. Chopped Onion

  5. Cocoa

  6. Coffee

  7. Duck Sauce

  8. Honey

  9. Honey Mustard

  10. Horseradish

  11. Hot Sauce

  12. Jelly

  13. Ketchup

  14. Lemon Juice

  15. Mayonnaise

  16. Mustard

  17. Peanut Butter

  18. Relish

  19. Soy Sauce

  20. Sugar

  21. Salt & Pepper

  22. Tartar

  23. Tea

  24. Vinegar